Antiquities of the russian country, 1846-1853. Volume 4. Illustrator — ru:solntsev, fyodor grigorievich. Boyar clothing of the 17th century. Portraits of the princes repnin here we see pictures from authentic portraits of the princes repnin: boyar boris alexandrovich and pyotr alexandrovich, governor of novgorod, in their attire. Academician solntsev borrowed the image of their costume from olearius's "travels". The boyar is wearing a zipun, fastened with buttons; there is a sabre on his belt. Over the undergarment he wears yellow boots, tied at the knees. Over the zipun is a turkish fur coat with a turn-down collar, with gold buttonholes and turn-down sleeves. The other is in a caftan with buttonholes and a rip, or slit, on the brim. In one hand he holds a cap, in the other a fly. Although in the drawing in the "historical description of the clothing and armament of the russian troops" (fig. No. 10) this caftan is called an okhobny, the latter was wider and longer than the former, had slits under the sleeves and a square folding collar. During the reign of feodor alekseevich, it was forbidden to let people into the palace or even the kremlin while wearing okhobny. The caftan was the most commonly worn garment in pre-petrine russia. "the nobles," according to carlyle, "wear caftans that extend to the knees and are fastened in front with buttons with buttonholes. " a high standing collar, known as a kozyr, was fastened at the back of the caftan; it was often decorated with gold and silver embroidery on velvet and altas, pearls and precious stones; hence the popular expression: "to walk like a kozyr," i. E. To put on airs, to show off. Both ferezi and caftans were of different types, according to their purpose and origin: upper and lower, for the body and for riding, for peace or mourning, and for rain, turkish, essian, kizilbash and circassian, russian cut. Silk and paper fabrics, as well as broadcloth, were used for this clothing. Date: between 1846 and 1853.
Loading...
